An ultimate guide to ice-climbing

Ice-climbing is known as an extreme sport concerned with climbing objects covered with ice. They may be natural or artificial. Here is an ultimate guide to this recreational and competitive activity.

Types of ice-climbing

Cascading ice-climbing is the most basic one. This is what first appeared as a result of exploration of ice-covered mountains. Although this type is more engrossing, it is more dangerous as well, due to the fact that it usually takes place in natural surroundings. It costs a lot and it requires more experience.

Another type of ice-climbing is overcoming ice-covered obstacles built by people. Usually this activity takes place in climbing clubs.

In the past few years another sport evolved from ice-climbing. What is it? It is dry-tooling and its name speaks for itself: sportsmen use ice-climbing gear to climb objects that are not covered or made of ice. The tracks may be built of stone, metal or even wood.

Types of ice

When talking about different types of ice, it is necessary to distinguish two varieties of it. They are:

• Fragile but at the same time solid ice has a very complex relief. It looks like a thick layer of ice on the mountains.
• Soft and layered ice is formed of compressed snow. It may form some cracks which depth is approximately 30-40 centimeters. This ice is unstable, which is why there is a high risk of icefalls.
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Ice-climbing gear

Ice-climbing equipment consists of specialized gear and ordinary climbing gear.

• Ice-drills are able to hold up to 1,5 tones of weight. They belong to the leaders of the climbing group and work as their fail-safe.
• Axes are used to get rid of snow. Their length ranges from 50 to 80 centimeters.
• Hammers are used to move up vertical walls.
• Customization for boots: they consist of several serrations.

As for the basic climbing gear, more things come in useful when it comes to ice-climbing.

• A helmet covers one’s head and protects it from injuries.
• A fall-safe is used to prevent falling or slipping.
• A light is helpful in winter when the duration of days is shorter.

Of course, special clothes is needed. It includes a pair of gloves, a buff-bandana, a pair of knee and elbow pads. It is important to dress up as warm as possible. By the way, professional sportsmen often find it hard to find suitable gloves. Some of them advise that gloves for golf are a great substitution to climbing gloves.

Ice-climbing technique

It is quite similar to climbing technique as it is based on flexibility and coordination. Not only does it require good physical condition but also it is concerned with high risks of injuries. At the same time, climbing is a more competitive sport, whereas ice-climbing is a more recreational and entertaining activity. Its technique is rougher and more demanding because ice is a much more unexpected substance than stone.

Cascading ice-climbing is a sport that requires a lot of physical demands and experience. There are several techniques of climbing natural ice-covered objects. Take a look at several techniques recommended to different types of landscape:

• If the traverse is less than 20 degrees, it is advisable to climb on foot with toes “looking” in different directions. Feet should fully touch the ice.
• If the traverse is more than 20-25 degrees, it is better to move with the help of side steps and use a gear to support.
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• If the descent is less than 20 degrees, it is necessary to use s-called “Prussian steps”, hold the body in a vertical position and bend your knees at the same time.
• If the descent is more than 20 degrees but less than 45 degrees, it is recommended to climb in side steps and use a climbing gear as a source of extra support.
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• If the descent is more than 45 degrees, it is necessary to use a rope.

There are several mistakes that sportsmen might make while climbing. The first one is walking on one’s knees: this way of movement will note give you the required control of the situation. Another mistake is not using any fail-safe or using it partially. Since ice-climbing is a dangerous activity, not paying attention to proper fail-safe is what might lead to falling and being injured.

Dangers and risks

Ice-climbing is an extreme sport which is concerned with many risks. It is believed that the greatest danger is falling from high objects. However, it is not true: due to the fall-safe systems used by climbers such cases are extremely rare. What happens a lot more often is getting injured by the anchors. It is hard to pull it out, which is why sometimes sportsmen put in this movement too much force. Another danger is bruises as a result of ice pieces touching the skin.

Competitions

Although ice-climbing is a more entertaining activity, competitions dedicated to this sport seem to be more festive. Music, bright clothes and hundreds of spectators often accompany it. There are two types of ice-climbing competitions. The first one is aimed for covering the hardest distance. Usually it consists of vertical ice-covered ascents, wall barriers, ledges and other obstacles. Covering such distances usually takes up to 15 minutes. The only thing that is allowed to use is a helmet, other types of gear are not used.

The second type is aimed for covering various distances as fast as possible. There are also different obstacles, but they are a bit easier to overcome than in the competition mentioned above. Usually there is a vertical ice-covered wall. Its height is up to 20 meters. Sportsmen are allowed to use two anchors. These tools are very sharp and make it easier to hold their bodies in a vertical position. In such tournaments sportsmen cover these distances than pedestrians covering the same distance horizontally.

Best locations

Although there are many artificial objects suitable for ice-climbing, professionals often say that it is better to opt for natural objects such as frozen waterfalls or ice-covered mountains. Here is a list of the most advisable places:

• Ice Factor, Scotland, is a closed object where it is possible to go on expeditions in two or three month during the year, because the weather there is changeable.
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• Rjukan, Norway, is a frozen waterfall where a famous festival is held annually. It is popular among both climbers and skiers.
• Skaftafell, Iceland, is a place full of amazing landscapes formed by volcanoes, mountains and glaciers.

All in all, although ice-climbing is a more recreational activity than climbing, but still it requires a lot of experience and special equipment.